Replacing Fluorescent Tubes with LED: T8 Retrofit Guide (Magnetic & Electronic Ballast)

Since 24 August 2023, T5 and T8 fluorescent tubes may no longer be placed on the EU market. Existing installations may keep running, but replacement tubes are becoming scarce and expensive. The good news: in most fittings, a fluorescent tube can be swapped for an LED tube in a few minutes, cutting power consumption per light point by 50–60%. The only thing that really matters is which ballast sits inside your fitting.

Why retrofit now? The EU ban and what it means for you

The basis is the RoHS Directive together with Delegated Directive (EU) 2022/284. Because T5 and T8 fluorescent lamps contain mercury and LED now offers equivalent alternatives, the exemption has expired. The common T8 lengths of 60, 120 and 150 cm are affected, as is T5.

What matters in practice: only placing new tubes on the market is banned. You may keep operating existing tubes, and retailers may sell remaining stock. Anyone running halls, workshops, car parks or corridors with hundreds of tubes should still not wait until the last stock is gone. A planned replacement is cheaper than an emergency swap tube by tube, and the energy saving starts on day one.

Step 1: Magnetic or electronic ballast? How to identify yours

Whether the swap takes one minute or needs an electrician depends entirely on the ballast. Three quick checks are enough:

Feature	Magnetic ballast (conventional)	Electronic ballast
Starter in the fitting	Yes, small cylinder with bayonet socket	No
Switch-on behaviour	Flickers for one or two seconds, then bright	Starts instantly without flicker
Ballast rating plate	Heavy choke, marked "magnetic", "KVG/VVG" or efficiency class B1/B2/C/D	Light electronic unit, marked "electronic ballast", "EVG" or class A2/A3
Retrofit effort	Swap tube and starter	Compatible tube or ballast bypass by an electrician

A practical tip: point your phone camera at a lit tube. If you see stripes or flicker on screen, the fitting usually runs on a magnetic ballast at 50 Hz. A steady image suggests an electronic ballast. Always confirm with the rating plate before ordering.

Step 2: Choosing the right LED tube

Length and wattage

T8 tubes have a 26 mm diameter and a G13 base. The length of the old tube determines the LED tube. Wattage is no measure of brightness; lumens and luminous efficacy are what count (more in our guide Lumen vs. Lumen per Watt).

T8 fluorescent tube	System power with magnetic ballast (approx.)	LED tube	LED luminous flux (at 150 lm/W)
60 cm, 18W	approx. 27W	9W	approx. 1,080 lm (120 lm/W)
90 cm, 30W	approx. 38W	12W	approx. 1,800 lm
120 cm, 36W	approx. 45W	18W	approx. 2,700 lm
150 cm, 58W	approx. 70W	24W	approx. 3,600 lm

To be honest about the numbers: on paper, a 58W fluorescent tube has more lumens than a 24W LED tube. But the fluorescent tube emits light all around, and much of it is lost in the reflector and housing. The LED tube emits directionally downwards. In fittings with a reflector or diffuser, the result on the working surface is therefore usually equivalent. In open battens without a reflector, where light levels are already tight today, recalculate the illuminance first or let us prepare a free lighting calculation. Reference values per room can be found under How Much Lux Do You Need?

Glass or aluminium, with or without sensor

• Glass tube: Looks like a classic fluorescent tube, high efficacy up to 150 lm/W. Standard for offices, warehouses and corridors.
• Aluminium tube: Better heat dissipation and more break-resistant. Useful in workshops and wherever tubes may be knocked.
• With integrated sensor: Switches on with movement and off again after a run-on time. Ideal for car parks, stairwells, basement corridors and racking aisles with only occasional traffic.
• IP65 tube: For damp areas such as garages, wash rooms or unheated halls, where an open batten is exposed to condensation. More on protection ratings in our guide IP Ratings Explained.

Colour temperature

4000K (neutral white) is the standard for offices, schools, warehouses and production. 6000K (daylight white) suits workshops, cold rooms and inspection areas that need high contrast. 3000K is best kept for reception and break areas. The effect of colour temperatures is explained in our guide LED Colour Temperature.

T8 LED tubes including LED starter

Step 3: Retrofitting with a magnetic ballast, step by step

In fittings with a starter, the ballast stays in the fitting and the wiring is not changed.

1. Isolate the circuit: Switch off at the circuit breaker, not just at the light switch.
2. Remove the fluorescent tube: Rotate the tube 90° and pull it out of the lampholders. The old tube contains mercury and belongs at a collection point, not in household waste.
3. Replace the starter: Swap the old glow starter for the included LED starter. This step is mandatory: without the LED starter the tube is short-circuited and damaged.
4. Fit the LED tube: Insert it into the G13 lampholders and rotate 90° until it locks. Check the beam direction: the light-emitting side faces down.
5. Test: Switch the power back on. The tube starts instantly without flicker.

Check the condition of the lampholders as you go. After 20 or 30 years, lampholders are often brittle and break when rotated. Damaged lampholders must be replaced by a qualified electrician.

Retrofitting with an electronic ballast: two routes

Route A: LED tube compatible with electronic ballasts

Some LED tubes run on the existing electronic ballast. They only work with ballast types the manufacturer has approved in its compatibility list. If your ballast is not listed, you must not use this solution. The ballast also stays in the system with its own lifetime and losses.

Route B: bypass the ballast (direct connection to 230V)

Direct wiring is the cleaner long-term option: the ballast is disconnected and the tube is supplied directly with mains voltage. This is a modification of the fitting and may only be carried out by a qualified electrician in accordance with local wiring regulations. Follow the wiring diagram in the tube's data sheet (single-ended or double-ended supply) and label converted fittings permanently so nobody fits a fluorescent tube later. Whoever modifies a fitting this way takes on manufacturer responsibility for it. For larger installations, replacing them with new LED fittings is therefore often the clearer solution, both legally and economically. General connection notes can be found in our guide Connecting an LED Light Fitting.

Tube swap or new fitting?

Situation	Recommendation
Fitting intact, magnetic ballast with starter	LED tube with LED starter: fast, low-cost, no modification
Fitting intact, electronic ballast on compatibility list	LED tube compatible with electronic ballasts
Electronic ballast, no compatible tube, few fittings	Ballast bypass by a qualified electrician
Brittle lampholders, yellowed diffuser, leaking tri-proof fitting	New LED tri-proof light
Large installation with electronic ballasts, hall above 5 m ceiling height	New fittings or LED high bays based on a lighting plan

A new LED tri-proof light with integrated LEDs reaches far higher efficacy than any tube, is IP65-sealed and no longer needs starters or ballasts. In wet or dusty environments it is the longer-lasting solution.

Worked example: workshop with 50 twin fittings

50 fittings with 2 × 58W fluorescent tubes on magnetic ballasts, 3,000 operating hours per year, electricity at €0.25/kWh:

• Before: 100 tubes × approx. 70W system power = 7.0 kW
• After: 100 LED tubes × approx. 26W (24W plus residual ballast loss) = 2.6 kW
• Saving: 4.4 kW × 3,000 h = 13,200 kWh, around €3,300 per year
• Material: 100 LED tubes 150 cm with LED starter, well under €1,000 at our direct-import prices
• Payback: a few months, plus no more starter changes or flickering tubes

Run the numbers for your own site with our guide LED Payback Period Calculator.

The 5 most common mistakes when swapping tubes

1. Leaving the old starter in the fitting: The LED tube is short-circuited. Always fit the included LED starter.
2. Magnetic-ballast tube in an electronic-ballast fitting: It won't work, or it destroys tube and ballast. Check the ballast first, then order.
3. Overlooking tandem wiring: With 2 × 18W on a shared magnetic ballast, two tubes run in series. This needs dedicated tandem solutions; if in doubt, check the wiring diagram.
4. Dimmable electronic-ballast installations: Standard LED tubes are not dimmable. If you need dimming, plan new fittings with a dimmable driver instead (see 0-10V, 1-10V and TRIAC).
5. Converting emergency lighting: Fittings with an emergency module are part of the safety lighting. They must not simply be swapped; the system has to be tested after any modification.

Frequently asked questions

May I still use fluorescent tubes after the ban?

Yes. Since 24 August 2023, only placing new T5 and T8 fluorescent lamps on the EU market is banned. Existing tubes may keep running and remaining stock may be sold. Replacements are, however, becoming increasingly hard to find.

Can I simply put an LED tube into my old fitting?

For fittings with a starter (magnetic ballast), yes: swap the tube and starter, no modification needed. For fittings without a starter (electronic ballast), only with a tube approved for your ballast, or after a ballast bypass by a qualified electrician.

Which LED tube replaces a 58W fluorescent tube?

A 150 cm LED tube rated at 24W. At 150 lm/W it delivers around 3,600 lumens and emits directionally downwards, so fittings with a reflector usually achieve the same brightness on the working surface at less than half the consumption.

What is the LED starter for?

The LED starter replaces the glow starter and bridges the starter socket. It acts as a link or fuse, not an ignitor. Without it, the LED tube would be short-circuited.

Does the magnetic ballast stay in the fitting and keep using power?

The ballast stays wired in, but with an LED tube it only causes small losses of a few watts because far less current flows. If you want to save that remainder too, have an electrician bypass the ballast.

Are LED tubes flicker-free?

High-quality LED tubes with a good driver operate flicker-free. For screen workstations and areas with rotating machinery, choose explicitly flicker-free versions to avoid stroboscopic effects.